The Man
Nigel Platts-Martin is behind some of London’s most popular restaurants, however certainly does not look for personal celebrity or media attention. He is the man behind Chez Bruce in Wandsworth, the Glasshouse in Kew, La Trompette in Chiswick, the Square in Mayfair and the Ledbury in Notting Hill; these establishments holding 7 Michelin stars between them. Platts-Martin
Having graduated in law from Oxford Platts-Martin embarked on a career with Freshfields; feeding his appetite for food whenever not at his desk. It was at this time that he got to know a young chef at Lampwick’s in Battersea, Marco Pierre White. Having decided that the law did not fulfil his appetite for life Platts-Martin purchased a brasserie on Wandsworth Common in 1986; bringing Marco Pierre White over as head chef they launched a revamped restaurant in 1987 - taking only 4 years to be awarded two Michelin stars.
In 1991 he opened a second restaurant, the Square, alongside Philip Howard, a former chef Harvey’s, gaining its first star in 1994 and a second in 1998. In 1993 White parted company with Harvey’s and in was then that Platts-Martin launched a new restaurant, Chez Bruce, with then chef at the Square Bruce Poole. It was here that the winning formula really started to come together with Chez Bruce repeatedly winning the accolade of restaurant of the year; finding a hugely devoted following.
In was in 1999 that Platts-Martin and Poole went on to open the Glasshouse in Kew with Anthony Boyd in the kitchen, which again has gained a Michelin star. Since its opening the Glasshouse now has Daniel Mertl at the stove and Anthony Boyd has taken up the lead in the kitchen at Platts-Martin’s and Poole’s 3rd venture La Trompette in Chiswick. In 2005 he opened the Ledbury in Notting Hill with the Square’s Howard and former chef at the Square Brett Graham. The Ledbury won its first Michelin star in 2006, adding a second in 2010.
The fantastic Three
One of the gambles that Platts-Martin has successfully taken is consistently going into business with chefs, with the growth of cooks into celebrities come the trappings of fame; including the growing of grand personalities and often a watering down of their culinary interest with TV appearances and the building of their own brands.
Bruce Poole
Platts-Martin seems to have a great ability to read character; the chefs with whom he has chosen to venture into business are ones who despite growing fame have remained dedicated to the kitchen and have kept their feet on the ground.
Chez Bruce, the Glasshouse and la Trompette form the wonderful trio referred to above. The winning formula that they follow may appear to be obvious, however there are very few restaurants in the capital that can match them. The cooking in all three is classic French with influences from Italy and Spain. It is clear that the produce is meant to be the star of the show rather than the plating or foams being splashed about needlessly. The menus offer something for everyone. There will usually be a selection of beef, chicken and lamb – all of which you can be sure will be superbly cooked and not smothered in any over-powering sauce or with unnecessary accompaniments. There is also usually an offal choice – the sweet breads and kidney at Chez Bruce were fantastic the last time I went and the pork cheeks at the Glasshouse were certainly no disappointment. The final part of the mains section is then usually devoted to some deliciously simple sounding fish dishes that remind you what the sea has to offer; the roast cod with olive oil mash, provençale tomato and gremolata is simply divine. In addition the cheese boards at all three are celebrated across London as being a treat for anyone.
Chez Bruce
The next element is service, a part of any dining experience that doesn’t always receive the attention that it should. The service at all three restaurants is excellent, the staff are always friendly and helpful and above all they come across as genuine human beings. All too often I eat in restaurants where the staff are either disinterested in their job or alternatively seem to believe their role is to make the atmosphere as stiff and starchy as possible. At this trio I believe they have go it just right – friendly, knowledgeable but also allowing you to relax fully. They don’t look down their noses at people who aren’t ordering £200 bottles of wine, or those who don’t know their millefeuille from their melanzane.la Trompette
Having got the first two elements right that leaves the atmosphere, something that the trio excel at once again. All three manage to create a smart atmosphere without making them starchy. Chez Bruce and the Glasshouse seem to have a slightly more upmarket edge to them, which has made me have a mild preference for the décor at la Trompette. The relaxed, airy but smart atmosphere means that all three would be suitable for any number of occasions; be in a date, a celebratory meal, a business lunch or pretty much any other event that you could think of for that matter.
The GlasshouseHaving ticked the culinary, service and atmosphere boxes the thing that also seems to keep people coming back for more, and which for me is a large part of the financial success of these ventures, is the price. With a dinner menu of £39.50 at la Trompette and the Glasshouse and £45 at Chez Bruce the bill does not spiral into absurdity as is often all too easy across London – in addition with a reasonable bottle of wine being available in all three for around £23 the bill doesn’t get an unhealthy shock through the addition of a liquid accompaniment. The Chez Bruce lunch at around £27 is also one of the better value meals you will find in the capital.
Not forgetting the other two
Having feasted on the three one Michelin starred restaurants in which he has a stake, that leaves the small matter of the two two Michelin starred restaurants.
The Square
Holding two Michelin stars but often said to being deserving of a third; this Mayfair stalwart continues to wow those who venture in. You will struggle to find more beautiful plates of food presented to you in London – however not for a second detracting from the flavours.The Square Philip Howard has a mesmerizing understanding of flavours, upon reading the menu you might at times think that his dishes sound rather busy; however once they arrive you then realise that the flavours work wonderfully well together. This is stunning French food with Mediterranean influences. At £80 for 3 courses it is that bit more than the wonderful trio above; but you certainly get that extra wow factor that you won’t find at the one star restaurants. The set lunch at £30 is sublime, it may be only a choice of two items per course however you can be assured that you will have memorable dishes placed before you.
The Ledbury
Philip Howard
With their partnership working so well at the Square it is not surprising that Howard and Platts-Martin decided to try their chances with another – this turned out to be the Ledbury, the most immediate question was however with Howard at the Square could they find another chef to take on the Ledbury and succeed? In the form of the Australian Brett Graham they found their answer; again the chef has brought very much his own style to the restaurant, however with the backing and knowledge that Platts-Martin and Howard have gained from their other ventures. Brett Graham is known to love shooting and this comes across in the menu, there is plenty of game and fowl to keep you busy. The LedburyThat is not to say that this is a restaurant where you simply get plates of bloody meat thrown onto the table (it is has two stars after all). The menu has once again a basis in France, however there are very strong British links, as well as influences from across other parts of Europe. The a la carte comes in at £75; which doesn’t seem inappropriate when compared to other two Michelin star restaurants; once again however you can see the winning formula slipping in – the set lunch at £27.50 is a steal for what you get in return.
A final word
Platts-Martin is a giant in the restaurant world and this is very well deserved. Unlike many others his restaurants have not dipped into administration as seems to have all too often with many top Michelin starred restaurants. He has built up great working relationships with some of Britain’s finest chefs and they have certainly played their part; for me the winning formula is based in the chefs staying in the kitchen rather than ending up on One Show or other such vapid programme. We can only hope that Platts-Martin keeps going strong, that others learn from all of the things that he gets right and that he perhaps adds to the London culinary landscape once or twice more. Platts-Martin has allowed me to have a taste of fantastic food, in wonderful environments without the need to sell a kidney to fund it.