In June 2010 Koffmann’s was opened at the Berkeley Hotel in Knightsbridge, seeing Pierre Koffmann return to the London restaurant scene. Not only was this a return to London but a return to the same hotel which housed his last restaurant – La Tante Claire. The reception that Koffmann has received has been warm to say the least; the Father Christmas lookalike has shown he maintains a strong following in the capital.
Getting there ….
Born in Tarbes France Koffmann spent a lot of his childhood in Gascony, an area and its cooking for which he maintains great affection. In 1963 he started at cookery school and went on to take his first jobs in Strasbourg and Toulon. In was then in 1970 that he moved to the UK and started work for the royal family of the restaurant world in Albert & Michel Roux’s Le Gavroche. From there he then stuck with the Roux family and worked at the Waterside Inn in Bray; the restaurant that has the title for the longest holding of 3 Michelin stars in the UK.
In 1977 he decided it was time to launch his own venture which led to La Tante Claire opening on Chelsea’s Royal Hospital Road. It was only 6 short years before it was achieved the ultimate award of 3 Michelin stars. In 1998 La Tante Claire moved to the Berkeley Hotel and the space in which it was formerly housed was sold to an up and coming chef by the name of Gordon Ramsey who went on to open his flagship restaurant there – which has itself been awarded 3 Michelin stars. Clearly that plot of land is extremely fertile when it comes to cultivating the prestigious stars.
Following its move to the Berkeley La Tante Claire lost one of its coveted stars before Pierre Koffmann decided to call it a day in 2003 following the death of his wife. London then had a long break from the culinary magic that Koffmann had previously provided; it was not until 2009 that Koffmann returned with a pop-up restaurant in Selfridges. What was meant to be 10 days at Selfridges turned into two months; the restaurant being stunningly popular. Having dipped his toe back into the water Koffmann was clearly reminded of the buzz that a restaurant could bring and it was not long before there was talk that he would be returning to his old stomping ground at the Berkeley.
Koffmann’s at the Berkeley is a far cry from the Michelin star chasing La Tante Claire. The menu looks to his childhood and his love for the cooking of Gascony which has a strong influence on the menu. It is a brasserie serving excellent food – however it is not trying to fight for 3 stars. Since its launch it has become hugely popular; with the set lunch often said to be one of the best deals in the capital. The simple but spot-on cooking and excellent service combine to provide an excellent dining experience . Let’s hope that Pierre Koffmann decides to grace London with his presence and cooking for many years to come as he was sorely missed and it feels like he has returned to his rightful home.